Shift Kit Page 3

More Valve Body / Shift Kit Page 3

	Take the lower valve body and remove the side plate.
	The end clutch assembly had a pin holding it in. Remove the little pin (Arrow) and slide it out.
	Add the Yellow Spring and put back together reinstalling the pin to keep it together.
	The instructions call for the Brown spring here. The question mark is there to remind you to check to see if you need to. The next page of instructions (Page 5 of the kit) provided shows the Non-Lockup Models Clutch control valve. I did not add the spring. Mine is exempt. I have a one-piece nonmoving plug. I left it alone. The spring sticking out (Blue) also depends on your valve. Instructions clarify this. I used the Dark Blue spring because mine is type 2. The description of the adjusters will help you determine what yours is. Also, the size of the valve. (Study Pics with kit!)
	I put the plate back on and began to adjust the valve. I used a 1/8" drill bit (arrow) and a 4mm socket. I adjusted until the bit fit nicely between the adjuster and casting. NOTE: If you are type 1 (Light Blue Spring) adjuster is flush with casting.
	Left Black arrow is a steel ball (stays). The left Pink arrow is the Aurum Ball and spring. I did not get an aurum ball here so I used the OEM ball. Drop ball in first, then spring. The right pink arrow is a screen that may have fallen out. I blew this out with air while cleaning the body. Actually, everything was cleaned prior to reinstall. The white NO symbol means no ball installed here.
	Put VBody back together in the position seen here (upper valve body on tray facing up) and bolt it back together hand tight. Follow the instructions on sequence and torque. Note: torque for lower VBody is 40-45 inch lbs. Not Ft-lbs!
	Here I am adding the other bolts from my paper template to avoid mixing up screws. Once again follow instructions on tightening!
	This is the Manual Valve (white arrow). Also note bracket that holds N-D control valve in under it that I spoke of earlier during the upper valve body section (gray arrow). There are instructions on adding a plug to Manual Valve. I did this and took pics. I did not add mine. I recommend to leave it alone and not add plug ( I was told it is not needed). Ask around though. My manual valve broke and I had to wait 4 days for one to be shipped (most dealers do not stock it). I sat and watched my car sit wondering has all this worked while I waited.
	There is the broke valve. The part # is MD716843 if you need it. I tried to JB Weld and smooth it out (to see that kit worked) but it has to be Completely straight to fit in the body, so don't bother.
	Reassemble and put it back like it was (ground screws, solenoids.O-rings, etc....). The arrow shows the O-ring, This needs to stay there when installing the body back. You can use Vaseline to hold it in place during install.
	WAIT!!!! Read next!

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Make sure parking pawl is in the slit of Manual Valve (arrow)!!! Hold the body up and add a few bolts just to hold it there. Align pawl, then add the other bolts after checking manual valve again. Finally, torque them down to spec.

I missed this and that is how mine broke. The pawl pressed on it wrong while tightening the bolts and snapped it. I live in the DC/NoVA area and called every Mitsu/Dodge dealer in town and no one had it. I got mine from Sherman Dodge in PA. The guy working there overnighted the part to me Monday and I got it Tuesday. So he saved me 3 days!

Okay....That's it. Refer to pics to reassemble. I added about 7 to 9 quarts of B&M Trickshift Fluid and the Beck/Arnley Transmission Filter and Gasket. Make sure you have the magnets in the pan. Also, I added a little RTV to the gasket and no leaks! Do not Over torque your Pan!! You could bend it so it doesn't seal properly. I think I torqued mine to 7-9 Ft-Lbs. and in sequence to evenly tighten it down.

This kit made a big difference in the performance for me.